Self-winding
John Harwood patented an automatic wristwatch in the 1920s. Rolex's freely swinging rotor of 1931 is the design most automatic watches still use.
A watch does two things. Something inside it moves back and forth at a steady rate, and the rest of the watch counts those movements. The spring, the gears, the battery and the crystal each help with one of those two jobs.
This guide opens up a watch one part at a time, looking a little closer in each chapter. It's written for a parent and child to read together.
What's a loupe? It's the small magnifying glass watchmakers hold in one eye while they work. Each chapter here is marked with a loupe setting, from 1× for the whole watch to 50× for the quartz crystal, to show how closely you're looking.
Eight small steps every second, from a balance wheel that ticks 28,800 times an hour.
People have always measured time with things that repeat: sunrise, the phases of the moon, a heartbeat. In ancient India, astronomers used a water clock called a ghaṭī. It was a small copper bowl with a hole in the bottom. Placed in a basin of water, it slowly filled and sank. One sinking took one ghaṭikā, or 24 minutes. Someone then emptied the bowl, set it floating again, and added one to the count.
That bowl has the same four basic parts as any clock, including the watch on your wrist.
Something to keep it going. A falling weight, a wound spring, a battery, or sunlight.
Something that repeats at a steady rate. A pendulum, a balance wheel, a quartz crystal, or an atom.
Something that counts the repeats. Gears, or a computer chip.
Something that shows the count. Hands on a dial, or numbers on a screen.
Of the four, the oscillator matters most. Gears count perfectly and hands point perfectly, but if the oscillator speeds up or slows down, the clock will be wrong. Most of the history of clocks is about finding steadier oscillators.
The first really good one was the pendulum. According to a well-known story, a young Galileo was sitting in Pisa Cathedral when he noticed a hanging lamp swinging. He timed it against his pulse. Big swings and small swings seemed to take the same time. Only the length of the chain made a difference.
Try it below. Change the length of the string and watch how the time for each swing changes.
At 99.4 cm, a swing from one side to the other takes exactly one second. Grandfather clocks use a pendulum about this long. Notice that making the string four times longer only doubles the time.
A pendulum only works when it hangs still and gravity pulls straight down. On your wrist, every step would throw it off. A watch needs an oscillator that works in any position. The next four chapters show how a mechanical watch solves this.
Make a one-second pendulum. Tie a key to a piece of string so that 25 cm hangs below your fingers. Let it swing gently. Count 10 full swings (out and back) while someone times you on a phone. It should take about 10 seconds.
Now swing it wider. The time hardly changes. Now try a 1-metre string. Each swing takes about twice as long. Can you work out why?
HintYes, but slowly. Gravity on the Moon is about one sixth of Earth's. Put that into the formula T = 2π√(L/g) and work out how much slower it would run.
HintMetal gets slightly longer when it's warm, and a longer pendulum swings more slowly. Clockmakers solved this with pendulums made of two metals that expand by different amounts.
A mechanical watch has between 100 and 300 parts, and many of them are smaller than a grain of rice. It runs without any electricity.
Below is an automatic watch, the kind that winds itself when you move your arm. As you scroll, it comes apart one layer at a time, from the glass on top to the steel back. Each part is explained as it lifts out.
The clear cover over the dial is called the crystal. The name goes back to the 1600s, when some watch covers were cut from rock crystal, a clear form of quartz. Today it has nothing to do with the quartz crystal that keeps time inside a quartz watch. The two just share a name.
A crystal has a simple job: let you see the time, and keep out dust, water and fingers. But it gets knocked, rubbed and scraped every day, so the material matters a lot. Modern watches use one of three.
| Material | Hardness | Good | Not so good |
|---|---|---|---|
| Acrylic (plastic) | about 3 | Cheap and light. Doesn't shatter. Scratches can be polished out at home. | Scratches easily and can turn cloudy over the years. |
| Mineral glass | about 5.5 | Clearer and harder than plastic, and still inexpensive. | Sand and grit slowly scratch it. Can crack if hit hard. |
| Synthetic sapphire | 9 | Very hard to scratch in daily life. Stays clear for decades. | Costs more. Can shatter from a sharp knock. Reflects more light, so it usually gets an anti-reflective coating. |
The Mohs hardness scale
The Mohs scale ranks materials by what can scratch what. Each one scratches everything below it. It's a ranking, not an even measurement: diamond is several times harder than sapphire, not just one step harder.
Ordinary dust and sand are mostly tiny grains of quartz, which has a hardness of 7. Anything softer than 7, like plastic or glass, gets slowly scratched just by daily life: wiping the watch on a sleeve, brushing against a wall, a day at the beach. Sapphire, at 9, is harder than sand, so those scratches don't happen. Very few everyday things, diamond among them, are hard enough to scratch it.
In 1902, the French chemist Auguste Verneuil found a way to grow sapphire. Fine aluminium oxide powder is dropped through a very hot flame. It melts and builds up, drop by drop, into a single crystal. The same method made synthetic rubies cheap, which is why every mechanical watch could have jewel bearings.
Today, sapphire for watches is grown in large furnaces, then sliced and ground into shape. It has to be cut and polished with diamond tools, because almost nothing else is hard enough. Sapphire crystals became common on expensive watches in the 1970s and 1980s, and are now found on many mid-priced watches too.
Because sapphire reflects more light than glass, many sapphire crystals have a very thin anti-reflective coating, the same idea as the coating on spectacle lenses. It makes the crystal almost disappear when you look straight at the dial.
A scratch test. With an adult, gently scratch an old plastic ruler and an old glass jar with a steel key. The key marks the plastic but not the glass. Now rub a corner of the jar with a little sand. Sand is harder than glass, so it can leave fine scratches. That's why glass watch crystals get scuffed over time, and why sapphire is used on better watches.
HintIt's a small lens built into the crystal that magnifies the date so it's easier to read. One well-known version appeared in the 1950s. Look closely at a watch with one and compare the size of the date numbers with and without the lens.
HintA plastic crystal can be polished smooth with a mild polishing paste. Glass and sapphire are too hard to polish at home, so a watchmaker replaces them. Why do you think the softer material is the easier one to fix?
A mechanical watch is powered by a single strip of springy metal, 20 to 30 cm long, coiled up inside a small drum called the barrel. When you turn the crown, you wind the spring tighter around the post in the middle of the barrel. As the spring slowly unwinds, it turns the barrel, and the teeth on the barrel's edge turn the rest of the gears.
A fully wound watch usually runs for about 40 hours. This is called the power reserve. Some newer watches run for 70 or 80 hours, so a watch you take off on Friday evening is still running on Monday morning.
Here, each second equals one hour of running time. The spring pushes hardest when it's fully wound and weakest when it's nearly empty.
That uneven push is a problem. If the gears simply turned as fast as the spring pushed them, the watch would run fast in the morning, just after winding, and slow by the evening.
So the spring doesn't control the speed. It only supplies the power. A different part, the escapement (Chapter V), controls how quickly that power is used. Between the two is a chain of gears, which comes next.
Watch a wind-up toy. Wind up a toy car or a music box and let it go. It starts fast and slows down as the spring runs out. A watch has the same kind of spring, plus a part that makes it unwind at an even pace. You'll see that part in Chapter V.
HintAn automatic watch can't, because its spring slips when full. A hand-wound watch has a stop you can feel when it's fully wound. The idea of overwinding comes from old watches whose springs broke, usually from wear rather than winding.
HintOld springs were made of carbon steel, which rusted and wore out. In the 20th century, new alloys of cobalt, nickel and chromium were developed that stay springy for decades.
Gears are good at counting. If a wheel with 60 teeth turns a smaller gear with 8 teeth, the small gear has to turn 7½ times for every turn of the big one. It can't do anything else.
In watches, the small gears are called pinions and their teeth are called leaves. A watch links four or five wheel-and-pinion pairs into a chain called the gear train. The barrel at the start of the chain turns about once every 6 to 8 hours. The escape wheel at the end turns 16 times a minute.
The numbers of teeth are chosen so that one wheel turns exactly once an hour and another turns exactly once a minute. The minute hand is attached to the first, and the seconds hand to the second.
The hour hand has to turn once every 12 hours, not once an hour. A small set of gears under the dial, called the motion works, slows the minute hand's motion down by 12 to 1 to drive the hour hand.
A gear puzzle. A wheel with 60 teeth turns a pinion with 10 leaves. How many times does the pinion turn when the wheel turns once? Now the pinion is fixed to a wheel with 80 teeth, which turns a pinion with 8 leaves. How many times does that last pinion turn? (Answers: 6, then 60.)
HintTraditionally they were cut with very small milling tools and then polished by hand. Today many are stamped, cut with wire, or made from silicon in the same way as computer chips.
HintThe wheel that turns once a minute isn't always in the centre of the movement. Instead of adding extra gears to move it there, the watchmaker puts a small dial wherever that wheel is.
If you removed the escapement from a watch, the spring would unwind in a few seconds and the hands would spin until it ran out. Watchmakers sometimes do this on purpose, carefully, to release the spring before taking a watch apart.
The escapement works like a brake that releases the gears in tiny, even steps. Its timing comes from the balance wheel, a small wheel that swings back and forth on a coiled hairspring. It does the same job as a pendulum, but it works in any position.
Each time the balance swings through the middle, it unlocks the escape wheel, which moves forward by half a tooth. As it moves, the escape wheel gives the balance a small push that keeps it swinging. That push, and the click that follows it, is the tick you hear.
So the balance sets the pace, and the spring supplies the energy.
Tap a step to pause the animation there. At full speed, the balance swings back and forth four times a second, and you hear eight ticks.
A balance wheel takes almost the same time for every swing, whether the swing is big or small, just like Galileo's lamp. When the spring is fully wound, the balance swings further. When the spring is nearly empty, it swings less far. Either way, each swing takes about the same time. That's why a weaker spring doesn't make the watch run slower.
It isn't perfect. Gravity affects the balance differently depending on how the watch is lying. Heat changes how springy the hairspring is. Magnets can affect it too. Even a good mechanical watch gains or loses a few seconds a day.
Every axle in a watch turns in a small hole. Steel turning in brass would wear the hole out within a few years, so the most important holes are lined with synthetic ruby. Ruby is very hard and very smooth, and it holds a tiny drop of oil in place. Ruby is the same mineral as the sapphire used for watch crystals. A basic wind-up watch has 17 of these jewels. Synthetic rubies have been cheap since the early 1900s, so they're there to reduce wear, not to add value.
Act out the escapement. One person slowly swings an arm from side to side. They are the balance. A second person holds a pencil on a sheet of paper and may move it forward one step each time the arm passes the middle. They are the escape wheel. However much the second person wants to hurry, the steps stay evenly spaced in time.
HintAbraham-Louis Breguet patented it in 1801. He put the whole escapement in a small rotating cage so that the effect of gravity would even out over each minute. It helped pocket watches, which sat upright all day. Whether it helps a wristwatch is still debated.
HintA steel hairspring can become magnetised. Its coils then stick together, and the watch can run fast by minutes a day. Phones, speakers and bag clasps are common causes. Hairsprings made of silicon, introduced in the 2000s, aren't affected.
HintBy making the balance swing more slowly. This can be done by moving a small lever that changes the working length of the hairspring, or by moving tiny weights on the balance rim outwards.
On 25 December 1969, Seiko started selling the Astron in Tokyo. It was the first quartz wristwatch on sale anywhere. It was accurate to within 5 seconds a month, while a good mechanical watch of the time could be off by that much in a single day. It also cost about as much as a small car.
Prices fell quickly. Like other electronics in the 1970s, quartz watch parts got smaller and cheaper every year. By the mid-1980s, a quartz watch more accurate than any mechanical watch cost very little. Switzerland's watch industry lost a large share of its jobs. This period is known as the quartz crisis.
Scroll down to take a quartz watch apart. Compare its layers with the mechanical watch above.
Quartz is a common mineral made of silicon and oxygen. It has an unusual property. Squeeze it, and it produces a small voltage. Put a voltage across it, and it bends slightly. Pierre and Jacques Curie discovered this in 1880. It's called piezoelectricity.
In a watch, the quartz is cut into a tiny tuning fork about the size of a grain of rice. A circuit gives it a small electrical push in time with its own movement, so it keeps vibrating, much like a bell that keeps ringing. Each fork vibrates at one very precise rate, set by its size and shape.
The quartz crystals in watches are made to vibrate exactly 32,768 times a second. (This is a different thing from the crystal on top of the watch, which is just the clear cover.) That number is 2 multiplied by itself 15 times, or 215.
Halving, 15 times
A circuit called a flip-flop sends out one pulse for every two it receives, so it halves the rate. Fifteen of them in a row turn 32,768 pulses a second into exactly 1. That final pulse goes to the motor. Each light below is one stage, blinking at its real rate. The first ones blink far too fast to see.
The motor
Each pulse sends a current through a coil of very thin copper wire. For a few thousandths of a second, the coil turns an iron frame into a magnet. The small magnet in the middle, called the rotor, turns half a turn to line up with it. On the next pulse, the current flows the other way and the rotor turns another half turn. Gears connect the rotor to the hands.
This kind of motor is named after Marius Lavet, the French engineer who patented it in the 1930s.
Why this number? First, because 32,768 is a power of 2, halving it 15 times gives exactly 1 pulse a second. Second, it's above the highest pitch people can hear (about 20,000 vibrations a second), so the watch doesn't make a whining sound. Third, a fork of this size is small and uses very little power. A slower crystal would have to be bigger, and a faster one would drain the battery sooner.
The same kind of crystal is inside almost every phone, laptop and microwave oven. It keeps their clocks running even when they're switched off.
Temperature
Quartz has one weakness: temperature. Watch crystals keep the best time at about 25 °C, close to the temperature of a watch on your wrist. When they're colder or warmer than that, they run slow.
The curve uses a typical value for watch crystals (−0.034 parts per million per °C²). High-accuracy quartz watches measure their own temperature and correct for it.
Halve it 15 times. Start with 32,768 and keep dividing by 2: 16,384, then 8,192, and so on. Write each number down. How many halvings does it take to reach 1? Now start with 1,000 instead. Do you ever land exactly on 1? That's why engineers didn't choose a round number.
HintLonger, heavier prongs vibrate more slowly and make a lower note. Shorter, stiffer prongs make a higher one. A watch crystal is a fork so small that its note is far too high for anyone to hear.
HintYes, but it also checks the time against atomic clocks over the internet and corrects itself. A wristwatch on its own has no way of doing that.
Most quartz watches with hands use a silver-oxide button cell about the size of a shirt button. Inside are two materials, zinc and silver oxide. The zinc gives up electrons and the silver oxide takes them in. A thin layer inside the battery, called the separator, stops the electrons going straight across. Instead they travel out of the battery, through the watch's circuit and motor coil, and back in. That flow of electrons is the electric current that runs the watch.
Zn + Ag₂O → ZnO + 2 Ag · about 1.55 volts
Watches use silver-oxide cells because their voltage stays almost the same until they're nearly empty, which suits a timekeeping circuit. As the battery is used up, the zinc turns into zinc oxide and the silver oxide turns into silver metal.
How long does a battery last?
An SR626SW battery holds about 26–28 milliamp-hours of charge. A simple watch with hour, minute and seconds hands uses about 1 to 2 millionths of an amp on average. Divide the first number by the second to get the battery life.
Assumes 27 mAh. Watches with stopwatches, alarms or lights use more power, and cold weather shortens battery life. Many watches warn you when the battery is low: the seconds hand starts jumping 2 or 4 seconds at a time.
Light. Solar watches have a thin solar cell under the dial, which lets some light through. The cell charges a rechargeable battery. Citizen sold one of the first in 1976. A good one can keep running for months in a drawer.
Movement. An automatic mechanical watch uses its swinging rotor to wind the mainspring. Some quartz watches use the same kind of rotor to turn a tiny generator that charges a battery-like part called a capacitor. Seiko introduced this in 1988 and later named it Kinetic.
Your hand. The oldest method is winding the crown by hand, usually once a day.
HintA battery's voltage depends on its chemistry: how strongly each material holds on to its electrons. Zinc and silver oxide together give about 1.55 volts. Zinc and manganese dioxide, used in ordinary AA batteries, give about 1.5.
HintIf swallowed, a button battery can get stuck in the throat and cause serious burns within a few hours. Keep spare batteries locked away, and get medical help immediately if a child may have swallowed one.
Each big improvement in timekeeping came from a better oscillator. The pendulum replaced the rough mechanisms of medieval tower clocks. The balance wheel and hairspring made accurate portable watches possible. Quartz replaced the balance wheel. Then atoms replaced quartz. Since 1967, the second has been officially defined using the caesium atom: one second is exactly 9,192,631,770 vibrations of a caesium-133 atom.
The chart shows how much each kind of clock typically drifts in a day. Each gridline is 1,000 times smaller than the one to its right. On a normal scale, everything after the pendulum would be too small to see.
These are typical, rounded figures. Clocks before the pendulum: about 15 minutes a day. Huygens's pendulum clock: about 15 seconds a day. Harrison's H4 lost about 5 seconds over an 81-day voyage in 1761–62. Certified mechanical chronometers (COSC): within −4 to +6 seconds a day. Ordinary quartz: about ±15 seconds a month. High-accuracy quartz: about ±10 seconds a year. Caesium fountain clocks: about 1 second in 100 million years. Optical clocks are better still.
HintFor a mechanical watch, yes, very good. For a quartz watch, no. For an atomic clock, it would be a disaster. Whether a number is good depends on the type of oscillator.
HintYes, by a tiny amount. Einstein's theory of general relativity says clocks run faster where gravity is weaker. The best optical clocks can detect the difference when one is raised by just a few centimetres. GPS satellites have to correct for this every day.
This timeline runs from ancient Egypt to today, with stops in China, Europe, India and Japan. Dates before about 1600 are approximate, and historians disagree about some of them.
For most of the 20th century, a watch was one of the few precision machines an Indian family owned. People bought one for a wedding, a first job or a graduation. They had it repaired rather than replaced, and passed it down. Until the early 1960s, almost all of these watches were imported.
Making watches is hard. It needs hardened steel cut to a hundredth of a millimetre, springs that behave the same in a Rajasthan summer and a Himalayan winter, and rooms clean enough that a speck of dust can't stop a wheel. A country that wants to make watches needs toolmakers, metal experts, and workers trained to assemble tiny parts under a magnifier.
Hindustan Machine Tools, a government company that made machine tools, opened a watch factory in Bangalore with help from the Japanese company Citizen. Its hand-wound watches had names like Janata, Jawan and Pilot. They were sturdy and easy to repair, and for decades they were the watch most Indians owned. HMT's slogan was "Timekeeper to the Nation". Demand was often higher than HMT could supply.
The Tata group and the Tamil Nadu Industrial Development Corporation set up Titan in Hosur, an industrial town near Bangalore. Its first managing director was Xerxes Desai. Titan chose to make quartz watches at a time when most Indians wore mechanical ones. Its first watches went on sale in 1987.
Making quartz watches meant training a new workforce, many of them from villages around Hosur. They learned to assemble very small parts in dust-free rooms, to very exact standards.
In 2002, Titan launched the Edge. At 3.5 mm thick, it was the slimmest watch in the world at the time. To make a watch that thin, the movement, dial, case and glass all had to be designed together. The case also had to take over some of the structural work that the movement normally does.
HMT's watch division closed in 2016, and old HMT watches are now popular with collectors. Titan became one of the largest watchmakers in the world. Between them, the two companies cover both eras in this guide: mechanical and quartz.
| Traditional unit | Meaning | Today |
|---|---|---|
| दिवस · divasa | One day and night | 24 h |
| घटिका · ghaṭikā | 1/60 of a day | 24 min |
| पल · pala | 1/60 of a ghaṭikā | 24 s |
| विपल · vipala | 1/60 of a pala | 0.4 s |
A vipala is 0.4 seconds. Indian astronomers were already working with units of time shorter than a second.
By the 1980s, quartz watches were cheaper and more accurate than mechanical ones. Even an inexpensive quartz watch keeps better time than a handmade Swiss one. Mechanical watches came back anyway. Many people like them for the craftsmanship, in the same way some people still prefer handwritten letters. Quartz kept improving too. Today some watches set themselves from atomic clocks, and some run for years on light.
John Harwood patented an automatic wristwatch in the 1920s. Rolex's freely swinging rotor of 1931 is the design most automatic watches still use.
Jewels mounted on tiny springs let the balance wheel survive a drop, making mechanical watches much tougher.
A solar cell under the dial charges a rechargeable battery, so there's no battery to replace for many years.
A tiny antenna picks up time signals broadcast from atomic clocks and corrects the watch every night. Junghans sold the first one.
A Seiko design that combines both kinds of watch. A mainspring drives the hands, and a quartz crystal controls the speed. The seconds hand moves smoothly, without steps.
Hairsprings and escape wheels made from silicon, like computer chips. They're lighter, need no oil, and aren't affected by magnets.
Solar-powered watches that get the time from GPS satellites, which carry atomic clocks. They also change time zone automatically when you travel.
A small computer on the wrist. The time it shows still comes from a 32,768 Hz quartz crystal, corrected over the internet.
Mechanical watches that run for three days, a week or more on one wind, thanks to stronger springs and lower friction.
These are questions this guide raised but didn't answer. Each one has a hint to get you started. Pick one and look into it together.
HintClocks copied sundials. In the northern hemisphere, where mechanical clocks were invented, a sundial's shadow moves in that direction.
HintAt 10:10 the hands frame the brand name, stay clear of the date window, and look a bit like a smile. Look at some watch ads and see if you can find one that doesn't.
HintNo one knows for sure. Ideas include making the dial look balanced opposite the VIII, older Roman habits, and simple tradition.
HintEarly glowing paint contained radium, which harmed the women who painted the dials. Modern glowing paint stores up light and releases it slowly. Hold a watch under a lamp, then take it into a dark room.
HintMost don't, and you have to correct the date by hand. A "perpetual calendar" watch has a wheel that turns once every four years, with notches for the length of each month, including February in leap years.
HintLess than it sounds. It refers to a pressure test in still water, not to diving 30 metres. The watch can handle splashes, but usually not swimming.
HintIt has a second set of gears that can be connected to and disconnected from the main gear train. Look up "column wheel" and "vertical clutch".
HintIndia is about 30° of longitude wide, which is about two hours of sun time. IST is based on 82.5° East, a line near Mirzapur that splits the difference. People in the northeast have long asked for an earlier time zone of their own.
HintThe Earth's spin is slightly uneven and atomic clocks are not. Leap seconds kept the two in line, but they cause problems for computer systems. In 2022, the international body for measurement voted to stop adding them by 2035.
HintEach satellite sends out the exact time. Your phone measures how long each signal took to arrive. Light travels about 30 cm in a billionth of a second, so the clocks have to agree to within billionths of a second.
HintEvery caesium atom is identical, which makes atoms ideal oscillators. The clock adjusts a radio signal until the atoms respond to it most strongly, then counts the waves in that signal.
HintNo single clock. Hundreds of atomic clocks in dozens of countries are averaged together to make Coordinated Universal Time (UTC). India's contribution comes from the National Physical Laboratory in New Delhi.
HintTemple bells, the call to prayer, a noon gun, a factory siren. Ask your grandparents what told them the time when they were children.
HintYou already made an oscillator in Chapter I. Now you need a counter and a display. Could a pendulum knock over one domino with each swing?
Further reading